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A Board, Some Wax and a Leash

My surfing journey, as I learn to surf and become involved with the surfing scene, on the North Devon coast.
A Board, Some Wax and a Leash Blog  

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Eyeball Report

Nov 5, 2009
I thought it might be nice to photograph the sea and create a photographic artwork to poeticize Trev's Eyeball Surfcheck report today and maybe other days...

How Big Were the Waves Yesterday Mate? How long is a piece of string...

Nov 4, 2009
Good grief it's hard to discuss wave size with anyone! How do you measure the size of a wave? I didn't know you could have such pangs of doubt simply discussing the conditions in which you slid your way towards the shore! It seems that different...

New Board Day: Now I have a Quiver!

Oct 31, 2009
First time out on my new Diplock 'Flyer'. It's just a standard 'fatboy flyer' type shape, swallowtail, 7ft. I chickened out of the 6'8 model - not wanting to risk too large a step. It looks so much smaller than my Mini Mal even though there's only six...

Surfing Bad No.10: Trying on Winter Wetsuits

Oct 30, 2009
Today I went to Braunton with the intention of buying a winter wetsuit after trying loads on. My word it's bleedin' hard work! I tried on five and gave up (and I think five was pretty good going considering I hadn't warmed-up or 'carb loaded' for the...

Good, Bad, Foam, Wind and Persistence...

Oct 29, 2009
Monday was a funny old day. I went out in the morning and had my worst surf ever. Besieged by foam for 45mins at Woolacombe I finally made it to the outside and some messy 4-5ft waves. Knackered: I didn't catch a single wave. Grrrrr. (Maybe the fact...


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