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a contumacious chef's culinary curmudgeonry

A contumacious chef's culinary curmudgeonry is the personal weblog of a former dot.com nerd returning to his roots in fine dining and the world of high class cooking and kitchens.
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Recipe: Thanksgiving Pumpkin Cheesecake

Nov 23, 2009
Pumpkin is seasonal. Yepp, you heard me. That stuff you buy in cans… not a substitute. Also, very important, don’t try canning that stuff at home. The FDA and USDA really, really, will have a fit if you try – mashed pumpkin tends to trap and develop...

Recipe: Bavarian Leberkäse

Nov 20, 2009
I rarely rely on recipes, except for two things – baking and sausage making. The latter’s more snooty cousin, the world of farcir, forcemeats, terrines, and other concoctions, especially relies on well executed ratios. This Bavarian recipe for...

No slappin' da donkey, now!

Nov 12, 2009
A brief while ago, I ruined my arm lifting a stock pot from the range onto my line, popping ulna and radius a little bit, but not killing anything major. Turns out in the process of recuperating, however, I assumed positions that weren’t intended to...

Where were you?

Nov 8, 2009
Twenty years and two days ago, just around this time, an eager young man boarded a train to Berlin. Feeling somewhat important and scared at the same time, his hand slid over the cold, smooth, metal of his side-arm. Over and over. As if to remind...

How 2.0 is your restaurant?

Nov 6, 2009
So I am running late. There’s a 30 minute delay on 101 towards Burlingame, which I have to take because the Bay Bridge is still closed for re-repairs. And that means I won’t make it to Jess in time to make and confirm reservations for six....


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