Today the forecast was for five to seven foot waves, and it was accurate. That's overhead to most people. But the conditions were about as good as they can be: favorable wind, sun, warm temperatures. Oh, and crowds. Did I go, or did I not go? Well....

Today was that rarest of occurences: Surfline actually rated our waves as Good. We almost never get Good. The best we usually get is Fair. And the occasions when it's good are usually over 6 feet, limiting the crowd to experts. Today was both Good and...

Didja ever ask that question to someone coming out of the water as you're getting in? Do you? And if so why and how do you use that information? I usually ask whenever and whomever I can, but then it's difficult to judge how much weight to give to...

I've been accused somewhere on this blog of Schadenfreude, that is, taking pleasure in the misfortunes of others. I don't see it that way. Consider how many years I've had this blog, and correspondingly how long it has taken me to get to the point of...

Today was another bigger wave day, five feet, and I made it my goal not to hang back but to take off later. I did it. And it wasn't so bad. At first I got worked. Then I got up to my feet. Then I got a ride. It wasn't perfect, but at least I learned...