Who knew that another blogger would end up being my go to shaper (for traditional, non-hull surfboards)? When I want a specific board, I go to him first. Worker by day, shaper/sander/glasser by night, Alan M is multi-talented. He is the maker of the JB...

What's significant about this picture? Nothing really. Okay, yeah, I'm going left yet again. But here's the rub: I'm going left at a break where everyone goes right . . . even when a left rolls through. I've even had someone tell me I couldn't go left...

What's right with this picture? I'll give you a hint. Do you see any other surfers? No, you don't. SCORE!!!! I called it big time today. Every so often, if I let my brain think about nothing other than tides, swell direction and the like, I can...

that when Jesus went to walk on it, he said "You call this an ocean?" before walking away in disgust. What? Not funny. Well neither is the lack of anything to ride!

The first time I met Pranaglider—now that I think of it, it was the only time we've met—I was in the OC meeting up with some other bloggers for a session. At that time, I'd still yet to see anyone on a mat before. So when he walked up to us holding...