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Jewing altered snaps.Well that was kinda fun in an overhyped way. Swell felt like it was always building but never quite got there. Most waves I was wishing for a couple more feet of size but beggars can't be choosers. Lotsa kookies and teams of 4 dudes though. But when they would show up I'd already had my fill and leave. This mornin' was a classic North LA morn. Nothing special but a good sunrise...
they sit as thewaves go in andoutthey sit as thestock marketmakes and breaksmen and familiesthe sit whileone punch of a buttoncould turn theirturkeynecks toblack and shriveledmatchsticksthey sit whilesuicides in green roomstrade it in for more spacethey sit while formerMiss Americasweep before wrinkledmirrorsthey sitthey sit with lesslife-flow than apesand my woman stops andlooks at them:"oooh oooh...
Not much energy out there this morn but it did feel good to get the soul wet. Gray on gray. Beautiul.Calm before the storm. Ripples before the walls.Reflecting before the reacting.Alone before the crowds. Stoke before the anger. Smiles before the frowns.I know I'll get mine. Hope you all get yours.1.2 @ 14secs from 175...
Gi-gi-gitty up! Have been sadly dry since bein' back.Masses gwan be frothin' soon. Just might have to get out there at 3am if I am thinkin' about snaggin' some solo olas. Twist my arm. Let's surf!1.6 @ 12secs from 195...
Holy Shit what a snap! Some photog named Ted Grambeau. Great pic. Beautiful.Check out more of his style here: www.flickr.com/photos/28381650@N04/show/Love the snap of the kid on a 3/4 broken board STOKED!2.2 @ 14 secs from 230...