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Surfing Terramar
It's all about the stoke.
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Posted on Thursday July 17, 2008 at 10:15 AM
Yes folks I'm going back to the hospital to get my guts put back together this coming Tuesday 7/22/08. I will walk outta there in 4 -6 days (5 days) and get on with living, getting back into the water and onto my board(s),with my son and friends at my side and my wife swimming near by. I will inspire her to learn to surf as well. It has been almost 6 months since my disaster surgery,and just now I...
Posted on Thursday April 24, 2008 at 02:34 PM
Well it has been several months since I have surfed last. Luckily my last 2 surfs we're "un-forgettable" See below 2 posts down.I have 2 more surgeries to go and a host of other issues butI am HOPING I will be able to go out and paddle the 10'3" around in August-September, in the warm glass, the very WARM, SUNNY, windless day, with CLEAR, GLASSY, WARM, LIVING WATER, with DOLPHINS and MY SON, and MY...
Posted on Friday April 4, 2008 at 06:30 PM
At my last writing I was headed into a back surgery to fix unbearable sciatic pain in my left leg.That surgery and what has followed was nothing short of HELL.During the surgery my large intestine ruptured, spewing bacteria into my abdominal cavity.Causing near fatal infection which take months to get rid of.This was undetected for 5 days. By the 5th day it became obvious to my ace team of physicia...
Posted on Wednesday February 6, 2008 at 06:36 AM
I have had this planned for weeks, Tues thru Thurs off from work.Why.... ?This Friday, Feb. 8th '08'I'm going under the knife for a disc removal in my lower back (L4-L5)This procedure will allow me to be free to walk and stand for more than 2 min at a time without anymore excruciating pain in my legs and back.I needed a really great, recent surf day under my beltbefore I went in for this ......and...
Posted on Saturday January 26, 2008 at 05:34 PM
At 6am it was colder 'en sh*t and I'm kinda sore and slow and dopey. Thought. " nah, not gonna go.Looked at Tammy on surfline and couldn't get a updated camera view...arrggghhh( and I pay for that thing ).Looked at Surfshot and voila, as I'm scanning the reports that follow down the coast I seeGOOD - GOOD- FAIR-FAIR-GOOD-GOOD etc. etc.I think "go, go, go while you still can, you fool".I goand I GOT...
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