What a chameleon Chardonnay is—so easily influenced! I mean, jeez, winemakers, climate … does this grape have core values? A central
identity? Well, of course it does, but I tasted 13 midpriced Monterey County Chardonnays at once the other day: lined 'em all up in my kitchen, popped all the corks, set a glass in front of each bottle, and got to work—at 10 a.m. no less! Tom Rinaldi, winemaker at Provenance in Napa, once told me he does all his tasting before lunch, when...
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